Thatched-Roof Fairyland

Tuesday, October 2, 2013.
The day started with a leisurely breakfast around the huge pine table built for an army. The kitchen in the East Tower continued to serve as our gathering place, morning, noon or night. This morning the kitchen table was an exceptionally nice place to gather. Elvis (the previously no-name peacock who lost his mate the month before) was greeting us at the backdoor as if to say, “Hey you guys! I’m part of this party too, you know!” The sun was shining brightly, a welcoming sight. Everyone took their time getting up and about this morning; all of us were still recovering from the previous full day of driving around the Ring of Kerry.

Our schedule called for a drive around the Dingle Peninsula, but a committee suggestion with a unanimous vote called for a day of exploring the towns closer to the castle. We chose to see Kilmallock, only thirty minutes away and then to drive a short distance north and see Adare before making our way back to the castle.

Because the day was sunny and warm we took the opportunity to climb to the roof of the East Tower in Springfield Castle. By this time John and Pat were used to climbing three stories to their room, Harriet and Rob two stories, but the rest of us were intrigued by the beautiful staircase and were anxious to climb that last stepladder. It really was a stepladder, not really steps and much more substantial than a ladder. The view up top was spectacular! Camera-clicking battled with bird-chirping.

After all the “Kodak-Moments” we made our way to Kilmallock, a walled-town in south County Limerick with a Dominican Priory and King John’s Castle that looked interesting, as well as visible remains of medieval walls. The town, founded in the sixth and seventh century was an important religious, trade, and commerce center and a noted location in the late medieval period forward. It was strategically located during war times from 1571, 1577, and 1648 and in more recent times in 1922 during the Irish Civil War. Another sectarian campaign occurred in July 1935, when arsonists burned the Church of Ireland building to the ground. I’m learning that Ireland has had more than its fair share of conflict.

King John’s Castle, a four-story tower that may have been part of the northern gate to the town at one time, was situated in the middle of the street and rather than work that puzzle, we just pulled into the first place we came to, an obscure lot behind a market, down a one way street. While I was planning the trip, I had read about the possibilities of a theatre performance at Friars Gate Theatre. There it was on Main Street, as we made our way along the unique passage of Mom and Pop stores of every notion. This was an excellent first stop. The Friars Gate Theatre also doubles as a quasi-tourism office. Unfortunately there were no performances scheduled during our stay, but a very pleasant lady gave us a self-guided walking map and as much information as one could handle in a quick briefing.

Much to my chagrin, in the middle of touring the ruins, I had completely filled the four memory cards for my camera. These were the same cards I had carried along to France and Spain on trips only a year earlier. What gives? I know I was, and still am, smitten with Ireland, but really, that many pictures!? I stopped a young couple on the street to inquire about where I might find another memory card. They were as friendly and helpful as everyone else we had met in Ireland. They pointed to a hardware store at the end of the street. I was skeptical, but sure enough, when I went in, the wonderful person behind the counter looked at my camera and produced exactly what I needed. It cost me 35 Euros (about $45), but I was desperate. It is 32GB. I hope that means it has a lot of capacity. We still had several days left on the trip and the artist in me would not be happy without a camera in my hand. This is the same point-and-shoot-camera in which the hinge on the battery portal had given out early on this trip. I was determined to hobble along with the rubber band holding the door tight enough to make contact with the batteries and holding my mouth just right to get the perfect shots.

Armed with plenty of memory card space, a fresh rubber band to hold the batteries in my camera, and plenty of mental visuals of Kilmallock, we were ready to drive on to Adare. Adare, located south of Limerick is regarded as Ireland’s prettiest and most picturesque village. Situated on the river Maigue, a tributary of the river Shannon, Adare has a rich history of rebellions, wars and conquests dating back to 1200 AD.

It would have been an easy drive from Kilmallock, but we were traveling on those narrow Irish roads much of the way and today of all days those narrow roads were receiving road work. We made our way patiently along and conveniently parked in the Adare Heritage Centre and Tourist Office.

We made our way through the Centre onto Main Street. I was immediately transported into Grimm’s Hansel and Gretel fairyland. The street was dotted with beautiful stone buildings, medieval monasteries, ruins and colorful thatched-roof cottages . I know that book was written by German authors and I was in Ireland, but the little book in my head from childhood was screaming Hansel and Gretel.

The original thatched cottages have survived for hundreds of years. Most of the cottages are kept by local restaurants, arts and crafts shops and delightful tourism traps, but some are still privately owned. In the early 19th century, the Earl of Dunraven laid the plan for the existing streets and townhouses of Adare. The lands and dwellings were rented to tenants. Today, the village is an architectural treasure of scenic beauty.

Angie and I stopped in the Blue Door Restaurant for a spot of tea and a leisurely chat. We window shopped and made our way into several of the touristy-priced shops but enjoyed our stroll along the walking trail the most. The trail took us along the River Maigue by Desmond Castle built in 1202. We passed the Augustinian Priory, the Franciscan Friary, and several other interesting sites. We circled the backside of the village, made our way back to Main Street and sat in the Adare Town Park. We watched locals play with their dogs and children before we joined everyone at the designated time back at the Heritage Centre. We bought a few souvenirs and drove back to the castle. An enchanting day of relaxing touring!

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