Appalachian People

So clean, I ate off the floor!

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The Dutch Oven, Court Street, Hillsville, VA

The Dutch Oven, in Hillsville, Virginia, is so clean, I ate off the floor!

My floors are not always clean but I still practice the 5-second rule.  Grant Miller dropped a donut off the stick while transporting them to the serving tray.  I swiftly volunteered to eat it.  Five seconds hadn’t passed and that floor was clean enough to eat off.

Son Grant with donuts for the case.

Son Grant with donuts for the case.

Rolin and Hannah Miller are celebrating more than a year in business. They opened the Dutch Oven on Court Street, Hillsville, Virginia after years of selling donuts and baked goods at farmer’s markets and festivals around southwest Virginia.  Business continues to be good according to Hannah. “Friends and neighbors would ask why we didn’t bring our donuts to town instead of driving for an hour to sell them at the farmer’s markets”, says Hannah. “We yielded to popular demand and bought this building from the bank for a bargain, opening our business here in July 2013.”

Rolin Miller went from hammering nails to hammering the cash register.  Hannah went from one oven to another.  She trained as a baker her whole life, apprenticing under her mother, a seasoned baker with a large family to feed.  Hannah worked at various restaurants in her teen years and has been baking ever since.

The Miller’s moved to southwest Virginia from South Carolina and are raising their seven children in an 18-family Mennonite community.  The oldest is away at college studying to be a teacher.  Grant, for the time being is helping out at the Dutch Oven.  Much to Hannah’s chagrin, he will be leaving for a seven-month mission in Asia.  The other five children attend Island Creek Mennonite School, Monday through Friday.  On Saturdays, the whole family gather to help out at The Dutch Oven.

“Lunch is the big thing.” Hannah maintains.  The Carroll County Courthouse is at the end of the block and very handy for lunch on court days.   The Millers import their sandwich meats from the Ohio Amish company, Troyer’s Country Market.  There are no GMOs and no MSGs or other preservatives.  The award winning Baby Swiss cheese severed on the sandwiches was perfected over 50 years ago by Alfred Guggisberg from the Guggisberg Cheese Company in Ohio.  In addition to loaves of Hannah’s breads, meats and cheeses are available by the pound for take-out.  They also stock Amish Wedding Food brand canned goods of pickled treats and fruit butters that are traditionally served at Amish weddings.

The next time you’re speeding up and down Interstate 77 near the Virginia/North Carolina line, take a break and drive two short miles into Hillsville for a sandwich made on sourdough or wheat bread baked on the premises.  If you prefer driving the more scenic routes in southwest Virginia along highway 52, you’re only a block away from a breakfast or lunch worth driving miles for.  If a sandwich is too much, take a break for a donut or a cinnamon roll as big as a cat’s head or a pumpkin and cream cheese muffin, all baked fresh each morning.  Leftovers at the end of the day are donated to Joy Ranch Children’s Home.

You can still find the Millers selling donuts at the Rocky Mount Farm Days once a month or at an occasional flea market around southwest Virginia, including Hillsville’s Labor Day Flea Market.  You don’t have to wait for Farm Day or the Flea Market to try their delicacies.  The Dutch Oven is open Tuesday through Friday from 7:00 am to 3:30 pm and Saturdays from 8:30 am to 3:30 pm, 118 Court St, Hillsville, Virginia.  Call them at (276) 728-0302.

 

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Perchance to Dream

Originally published in The Big Blue, Vol 1 Issue 2. 2007. The Frey's no longer operate their B&B.

Perchance to Dream...

By Mitone L. Griffith In 1999 after years of entrepreneurship in Charlotte and tired of the big city life, William and Candace Frey sought refuge in the healing hills of Virginia’s Blue Ridge Mountains. Lacking any farming experience and endowed with only a love for animals and a simpler way of life, they embarked on a seven year journey to the completion of their dream, a beautiful Bed and Breakfast and 30 (soon to be 41) walking, chewing, sweet little goldmines. “Hope springs eternal” must have been a driving force behind their huge undertaking, for when it was all said and done, they named their 100 acre Alpaca farm, bed and breakfast, and retreat “Inn at Hope Springs Farm.” The Frey’s bed and breakfast is an upscale romantic inn created to look like an antebellum plantation and filled with many beautiful antiques. Its style is a reproduction of a Louisiana Plantation with three stories of porches and balconies that look at the crest of the mountain, Indian Ridge. The back of the manor overlooks the upper pond. There are six elegantly appointed bedrooms, three queens, and three kings, all with full baths: two have whirlpool tubs in bath suites, 2 have private balconies and one is an entire third floor suite with a private balcony, living area, kitchenette, bath and large bedroom with king size bed. All have beautiful views and access to an array of amenities to pamper and enhance the pleasure of anyone’s stay. The elegance, luxury and sublime surrounds are like gifts to each person who comes for a stay or a visit to the farm. William and Candace worked seven long years just to be able to give this gift of themselves. Hope Springs Farm may have been their dream come true, but their dream inspires dreaming, starting at the beginning of their long driveway to their manor home and alpacas hidden far from the road’s view. The Freys started carving out a farm from overgrown vegetation on their 100 acre property located in Willis, Virginia, in Floyd County, on State Route 221, halfway between Floyd and Hillsville, VA. Their land had sat vacant for about 15 years. The Freys were still living in Charlotte at the time, and driving up on weekends to work the land. The original house had burned down years before. The only remaining evidence of former habitation was an old chimney, barn, former slave dwelling, chicken coop, sheds, lots of old apple, plum and pear trees, and a pond. They first built a guest house, a second pond and roads, while they stayed in a trailer there on the weekends. After that, they lived in the guest house while building the manor, after which came two barns, and pastures. They purchased their first five alpacas in January 2002, and five more in June 2002. Their herd agisted at a farm in West Virginia until they brought them to Hope Springs Farm in December of 2005. The herd has now grown to 30 alpacas and 2 guard llamas. William and Candace expect eleven baby alpacas (crias) due this year, eight of them having been born May of this year. Many people come to Hope Springs Farm just to see and touch alpacas and to learn about Incan Gold—the alpaca fiber that once only royalty could afford. Guests are allowed supervised handling of these beautiful animals. It’s a great photo opportunity, and all come away with an unforgettable experience. Some are inspired to seek out more information for investment or to start their own alpaca farm, or to learn to spin, or to take back pictures and fiber samples to classrooms of children eagerly learning about farm animals. You may be stuck in the grind in a big city in your everyday life just as William and Candace were. Because of their dreams fulfilled, you can come out and dream a little yourself, hike trails in their 100 acre woods looking for Indian relics, feed chickens that free range on their farm, run with the border collies, kiss a baby alpaca on the nose, catch and release a catfish using a bamboo pole, fall asleep to a serenade of frogs, and awaken to a choir of singing birds. It’s a little bit of heaven on Earth, a “golden palace” at which to renew and refresh. Good dates to come out and stay with the Freys would be Floyd County Homecoming & Harvest Festival - Sept. 15, 2007. They plan to have some special fun that day with the Alpacas. And make sure to get a room at the Inn during the Blue Ridge Wine Trail; find out more about that in this issue! Reserve a room at Hope Springs Farm by calling 540-789-3276 or emailing hsf@swva.net. You can learn more about them at www.innathopespringsfarm.com. Inn at Hope Springs Farm is located at 6847 Floyd Highway South, Willis, VA 24380.
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Ghosts of Major Graham Mansion

PUBLISHERS NOTE: This article was written and published in the Big Blue Magazine in 2008. The mansion now puts on a Haunted tour every October. Though they held another GrahamFest this year, the link to the GrahamFest website is no longer active. You can find out more about the Haunting tradition at HauntedGrahamMansion.com and more about the history and Civil War events at MajorGrahamMansion.com.
  By Dana Sapp I slowly drove along the dirt road enjoying the peacefulness and beauty of the cold, clear February afternoon. Cows stood in pastures around fresh hay bales and birds flew in and out of the thick brush that grew along the fence lines. As I topped a small ridge I got my first glimpse of the Major Graham Mansion in Grahams Forge, Virginia.
Front Gate

Front Gate

As I descended the hill I could only imagine beautiful horse-drawn carriages carrying well-dressed men and women along the same path and up to the plantation entrance. I slowly drove through the magnificent iron gate and up to the house. As I drew closer the wear and tear of years of neglect could be seen. Josiah Weaver, the present owner of the mansion and surrounding ranchland is a southern Virginia native with business interests in Virginia and Florida. Even while living in Florida Josiah could not escape the call of the mountains and purchased the Major Graham Mansion and surrounding property to form W.W Ranch. Preserving the history, heritage, and authenticity of the land and its people continues to be his number one goal. Some broken boards and faded wooden shutters could never take away the dignity of this historic place. My tour guide that day was Mary Lin Brewer, festival director of GrahamFestUSA, an annual music festival held on these grounds Labor Day weekend. An avid historian of the Major Graham Mansion Mary Lin's enthusiasm spills over into her commentary. As we stepped into the cold quietness of the foyer the cold air seemed heavy with nuance and history. The mansion is believed to have been built around three very different structures. The first was a log cabin built by Joseph Baker in 1785. It is said that two of the workers building the house were promised their freedom by Mr. Baker after his death. The workers decided to speed up their freedom by murdering Joseph Baker that day. Did I mention that they were all making moonshine in the front yard of the cabin at the time and added Joseph Baker to the mash? The two men were hung on the ridge behind the mansion.
Do you see a ghost?

Do you see a ghost?

The original frame section of the mansion was built in the 1830's with the 3-story brick portion added around the 1850's. From the finely detailed scrollwork staircase to the beautiful huge wooden doors, this 25-room home was clearly built on sophistication and refinement. Born in 1838, Major David Graham, an officer in the Civil War, lived in the mansion his entire life. Major Graham took over his father, Squire David Graham's iron business and farming interests. Always a commanding presence, the mansion is said to still hold some horrible secrets. With these secrets come unsettled spirits from the past trying to find rest from their dark memories. Over the centuries the Major Graham Mansion seems to have hosted everything from the macabre to the eccentric. Climbing the grand staircase to the second floor, our first stop was what is known as the Classroom. It is thought that Betty Graham taught school children here during the Civil War. A clairvoyant friend of Mary Lin's has felt a definite presence of a little girl named Clara. Clara was 7 years old when she died in the classroom from tuberculosis. Next we visited the Bridal Room aptly named for the etching on a windowpane by what is thought to be the diamond ring of a bride on her wedding day. Five sets of initials, a date, (February 24, 1864), and the written name M. Belle Pierce is found scratched onto the window. The clairvoyant also felt that someone who had occupied this room was not happy. Could it have been an arranged marriage? A jealous lover? The clairvoyant also felt that a lady had died in the adjoining room from an unexplained illness.
This cat sees something!

This cat sees something!

As we ascended the stairs to the third floor, we came to the Confederate Room, a small, narrow room that leads to the attic. It is said that Confederate officers secretly met in this room making strategic battle plans during the Civil War. As we strolled through the house I tried to soak up its feelings and emotional turmoil of the past. Are these restless spirits still here? I never imagined that I would get the opportunity to return to the mansion on a more sinister quest. The next time I drove onto the Major Graham property was just before dark on a Saturday night. I was meeting members of the Virginia Paranormal Society at the mansion to spend the night and hunt ghosts. Formed in 2006 by Nick Ferra and Ron Thorne, these real life ghost hunters and their members spend almost every weekend in dark, scary places. Once the team arrived they immediately began unloading equipment. Our base station was in a downstairs dining room. Night vision cameras were immediately set up in four areas of the house where the most paranormal activity had been reported. This was not the paranormal society's first trip to the mansion. On previous visits they recorded a child's voice saying "What's your name?" near the Confederate room and a man's voice saying :I don't play that tune" in the parlor. Other equipment included digital recorders, flashlights (very important to me!), digital cameras, and an electromagnetic field detector. Yes, it was just like on TV! After the video monitor was set up in the dining room to capture all movement in front of the night vision cameras we only had one thing left to do....wait until it got dark..... really dark. Dividing up into teams, society members went to different parts of the house to listen and try to communicate with the spirits. I followed two members upstairs into the classroom. Sitting in a dark room, in a centuries-old house with a sordid past of war and conflict, listening for spirits, will shake even the staunchest skeptic. Listening for sounds, looking for shadows, a creak, a scuffle, a footstep, the feeling that someone is watching from the doorway. Yes I experienced it all. During two separate visits to the classroom I saw unexplained shadows, felt an uncomfortable, menacing presence, and heard strange sounds. I watched the digital recorder click off twice while laying on the mantel with no one around it as team members tried to coax reactions from the spirits by asking them questions like "What is your name?" and "Give us a sign that you are here." I do not think that Clara was there that night. Was she scared of this stronger, more threatening energy that we encountered? Had she experienced something evil during her young, short lifetime? In the Bridal Room I felt only peace. Nothing scary, no presence, not even the feel of a bride on the anniversary of the eve of her wedding. We happened to be there on February 23, 2008, 144 years later. I felt that I was pretty brave but I did draw the line at going into the basement where it is said slaves were kept in shackles. I figured if there was any place for disgruntled spirits that would be one of them! The team came back empty handed with only tales of a few "mummy spiders." By 1:00 AM everything had become quiet. No more knocks or strange sounds. It was almost like the ghosts have a bedtime too! Was Nick and the other paranormal members discouraged by this visit? Not at all. Most of them agree that the place is probably haunted. Some nights are just better than others so Nick and his team members will be back. They quietly break down their equipment and get ready to spend time next week analyzing the hours of video, photos and digital recordings they have collected. Do I think it is haunted? I cannot say that I saw or heard any ghosts but I am sure that there is something there. Leftover energies from days gone by, spirits who cannot find there way out of this realm because of past tragedies, heck, people who just plain don't want to leave this beautiful old place! If you are a fan of Civil War history, ghost hunting, or just like to visit historic places, the Major Graham Mansion is open during GrahamFestUSA on Labor Day weekend. For a small fee people can tour the house and learn about its former inhabitants and its ghostly findings. GrahamFestUSA also offers a wide variety of music and fun over two days. For more information go to GrahamFestUSA.com. Dana Sapp is a freelance journalist living on her family farm in beautiful Comers Rock, Virginia. She also works in the agricultural industry and loves spending time with her family riding horses, traveling and enjoying the great outdoors!
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Tater Secrets & Blueberry Dreams

Author's Grandmother, Virginia Moseley, is pictured in pink outfit in far back middle.

Author's Grandmother, Virginia Moseley, is pictured in pink outfit in far back middle.

  It's that time of year again. The weather is warming up and folks around here start thinking about those "dinners on the ground" like they used to have long ago. That's Primitive Baptist talk for an outdoor buffet-style food gathering, a potluck with delicious dishes contributed by the party-goers. They called it "dinner on the ground" because they usually spread out blankets on the ground and laid the covered dishes on the blankets. I guess they didn't have easy fold-out tables back then! I can remember every May the Moseleys and Wilsons (my grandfather's and grandmother's families) would meet for a reunion about the same time as Papa's birthday, May 31. Our world seems too busy these days to take time for such a happy family gathering, but thank goodness I have the pictures and the memories. These eat-til-you-pop (or drop) events were always held in the warmer months. I guess Papa's birthday was one of the first to come along on the calendar, so that's about when our first potluck of the summer was. The family tradition of dinner on the grounds is older than my great-grandparents and probably older than their parents, a tradition likely passed down from my Scots-Irish roots. Of course there were usually three different kinds of potato salad and two or three different fried chickens. I was a kid during the hay day. Most of my elderly relatives were not quite "elderly" and still traveled. There were still some youngins among us back then too. Now, most everyone has lost touch, grown up, or passed on.
Men folk at the reunion...circa 1960s. before author even existed.

Men folk at the reunion...circa 1960s. before author even existed.

First, all of Papa's thirteen brothers and sisters started dying through the years, and two years ago Papa passed away. He was 95 and quite a satisfied old guy. Now, there are no more reunions for my family, but every time I make potato salad, fried chicken or blueberry salad, I think about those times I spent as a kid hiding behind lawn chairs, listening to the cackling of my aunts and watching the men folk congregate around a piece of lawn equipment or some other manly thing like that. I can remember the plethora of tables spread as far as the eye could see, filled with all kinds of country treats. There was usually one whole table just for desserts alone--my granny was infamous for making several. Her and her sweet tooth, you know. Granny would cook for days before the big event. The refrigerator would be filled to overflowing and things that could be left out would line the top of the washer and dryer in the laundry room. Floating somewhere near the dessert table was Granny's Blueberry Congealed Salad. Not quite dessert, not quite salad, it hung somewhere in the middle. Me, I could actually make a dinner of it! The night before reunion day, Granny would take one large package of grape gelatin and dissolve it in 1 3/4 cup boiling water in her old 9" x 13" Tupperware. (It had a lid, and that way she could keep the bugs off it outside while people weren't serving themselves.) She'd let that cool down a bit and add a whole 20 ounce can of crushed pineapple. If you make this, be sure you don't drain it! Then she would stir in a 20 ounce can of blueberry pie filling. She'd let that set up overnight. Reunion morning she'd make the most delectable cloud-like topping to spread atop the blueberry gelatin. She'd beat ½ cup sugar and a ½ cup sour cream into a softened 8 ounce block of cream cheese. Sometimes she'd add a teaspoon of vanilla, but sometimes she might forget. Once in a while she'd sprinkle a few drained blueberries on top for looks, but usually that time-consuming touch would be reserved for simpler events. I know congealed salads have become quite a comical thing for people who aren't from the south or the mountain south, but this is one that no one would laugh at. At our reunions and gatherings, it would always disappear while those orange congealed salads might still be sitting there when people were packing up to go home.
Really old reunion shot. Way before author's time. All of Papa's brothers.

Really old reunion shot. Way before author's time. All of Papa's brothers.

I have tried and tried to pin Granny down and get her "Tater Salad" recipe, as the country folk around here call it. Unfortunately she suffered a stroke several years back, and I am not sure she remembers it exactly. It was one of those recipes that grew and became life-like in its yearly progression. I can tell you what I know about it--but the secrets are still missing. I never saw another salad on our table like it. Of course it had potatoes, and its binding was obviously some kind of mayonnaise, with a tiny bit of mustard, combo. But the unique thing my granny added to her "tater salad" was tiny cubes of sharp cheddar cheese, tiny cubes of her own homemade Icicle Pickles, a chopped egg and a dash of celery seed, with salt and pepper to taste. She always pealed the potatoes and cut them in ¼ inch cubes before she boiled them. Don't over cook them! They need to be firm, but tender. I remember seeing some of the potato salads made with mashed potatoes. Yuk! I don't know if the potatoes were over cooked or if the salad was mashed on purpose, with no distinguishing differences between the potatoes and the other vegetables, but I want to see the chunks! I always thought the cheddar cheese was a weird idea. And I am not the biggest potato salad fan anyway, but looking back now, I think how her "tater salad" looked so pretty--the dark forest green of her pickles, the buttery yellow of the dressing, and the bright orange of the cheddar. If she had it, she might add more color and flavor with tiny bits of pimento. As far as potato salads go, hers was about the only one I would eat. I hope you'll be invited to a potluck gathering soon, one that rivals the dinner on the grounds that were so popular way back when. You could take the old standard fried chicken or plate of deli meats from the super market. But maybe, just maybe, you might try your hand at Granny's Blueberry Salad, or take her idea for potato salad with cheddar cheese. Maybe you'll create your own family heirloom. Just be sure to write it down and pass it on before your family tradition gets lost in our busy world. Otherwise, you'll have tater secrets and congealed dreams.
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Rocket Propelled Ginger Beer

Sandy & Denny Troth

Sandy & Denny Troth

Contributed by Sandy Troth, Fries Virginia
As I had been dabbling in a variety of fermentation techniques which resulted in yummy food stuffs and drinks, I stumbled upon Ginger Beer.   Denny and I both found it to be very soothing to the tummy and quite tasty and it was relaxing as it has an alcoholic content.  And so, I assembled an array of brewing bottles with wire snaffle caps and prepared the initial must according to directions.   Just a week prior to leaving for vacation,  I prepared the secondary fermentation stuffs and bottled the brew in those brown bottles with wire snaffle caps.  See:   http://www.amazon.com/500-Amber-Flip-Cap-Bottles-pack/dp/B002Y2951C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404163701&sr=8-1&keywords=wire+capped+brewing+bottles
The instructions were to leave the brew to ferment for 1 week and then taste and refrigerate if ready.    I was supposed to check the brew on the day of our return.
Forgot.
So, I asked my adorable, long suffering husband to help me take the sample as I had no idea what would happen when we tried to open the bottle after I had let the brew ferment for an extra 3 days.   There were 4 sixteen oz bottles.
We brought the first bottle up from the basement to the kitchen.  We set the bottle onto the cabinet, and both of us held the bottle while we opened it.  KABOOM!   Ginger beer on the entire ceiling, the tops of the cabinets and every wall and every surface, including on us.    Hmmmmm.   Cursory clean up.    Now what to do with the other 3 bottles.
 
We elected to deal with them outside (we're quick to catch on, aren't we!)   But my adorable -- you are beginning to understand the long suffering part now, aren't you - husband didn't want to waste the ginger beer because we tasted the 1/2 inch left in the first bottle and it was amazingly delicious.   As good as those expensive, commercial products we had tried.   So we wrapped the bottle and cap in 4 layers of cheese cloth and pointed the bottle toward the chili kettle set on the ground and Denny released the second bottle.   KABOOM!  Bottle slipped out of both our hands, launched directly into hubby's shin.  
Goose Egg

Goose Egg

Instant goose egg.    Lost all the ginger beer.  
 
Third and fourth bottles.   Early 4th of July.   We both managed to stay out of the way of the flying wire caps which buried themselves into the earth - we ditched the chili pot and all thoughts of salvage - and we avoided the rocket launch of the bottles which landed 50 feet in the hay field beyond the house!
 
We have developed a different method for our secondary fermentation (using an air lock in a gallon bottle)  that does not build up any pressure and will decant future batches into the bottles after the secondary fermentation is complete and refrigerate after allowing fermentation to continue only a couple of hours. 
 
Denny says that it's never dull around here.   He's healing nicely.
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Contact Me
If you would like your vacation or tourism property covered in a feature story, contact me,
Penelope Moseley
276-733-9704
paw@penelopesart.com