Appalachian People

The Soap Lady

Contributed by Emily Dix and Tanner Jackson

Way back 15 miles in the country, near Wytheville, Virginia, there is a small, green, block building that will take you back in time 50 years.  This is where Crystal Gillian makes her craft at Mule Hell Trading Company.

Our class at Wytheville Community College’s Appalachian Governor’s School took a trip there one crisp summer morning, to a place called Cripple Creek, Virginia. As we pulled up, as soon as we got off the bus, we could smell the strong scent of the soaps.   As we walked through the door, we saw a small black-haired lady, standing on a stool stirring soap.

We could look around and see that she is very dedicated to her craft. She has over 60 products ranging from soaps to lip balms and everything in between.  As we walked through the store we could easily smell the variety of soaps . . . my favorite was Milk and Honey.

We were wondering where the name Mule Hell came from.  It is the name of the road where her grandmother’s house stands, which is where she lives now, and the road about two miles away from her Company.  Her grandmother made soaps when Crystal was younger, but Crystal never tried to make it herself until she was 22.

When Crystal moved away from southwest Virginia, she transferred into the modern world of London, and the city-life.  She married and had a child.  She had many jobs but none of them ever worked out.  When she moved back to Virginia, she moved into her grandmother’s 140 year old house and found the tools her grandmother used to make her soap.  She also found bars of soap that were 50 years old and were still useable.

The soap interested her so that she decided she would learn how to make it.  She had no help, only books and her small memories of her grandmother.  When Crystal first tried to make a bar of soap, it did not work out for her. It took her three tries to finally get it right.  In 2010, she started making soap to sell, but she didn’t know if that would be enough to make a living so she did other things such as work at a greenhouse and a community garden.

Her soap business took off faster than anything else and she couldn’t supply enough for the demand.  She stopped doing the garden and the greenhouse and spent her time solely making soap in her house.   The inventory was overwhelming and she didn’t have enough space.  In 2011, she took out a loan and bought an old store, restored it and established her own company. Within three years, she has grossed over $120,000 dollars and her company continues to grow.

She has her products in many local stores and sales her soaps at festivals in southwest Virginia. If you would like to visit her, then take a trip around a curvy road surrounded by farm lands and experience the culture and the true heritage of her lifestyle.  Her shop is located at 134 Francis Mill Road in Cripple Creek, VA. If you would like to contact Ms. Gillian you can email her at crystalgillian@embraqmail.com, visit her Facebook page at Mule Hell Trading Co. or you can ‘give her a holler’ at 276-621-4741.

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Wayne Henderson & the Eric Clapton Guitar

Wayne Henderson

Wayne Henderson

Contributed by Big Blue Author We all know fine craftsmanship when we see –or feel –it: the perfectly balanced hammer, the heavy-duty kitchen mixer that whips everything poured into it for 20 years, the musical instrument that makes every player sound better than he or she actually is. It seems to be a product of patience, artistry, and perhaps a touch of genius. Sometimes it comes from simple determination, bonded with practice, practice, practice. Sometimes it is all or some of these, added to careful instruction and understanding of the process of producing the final product. Wayne C. Henderson is a fine craftsman. He is nationally and internationally recognized for his musicianship and for his craftsmanship as a luthier – a maker of stringed instruments. In a small workshop in his back yard, he produces guitars of such high quality that the waiting list is years long and the names on that list are something of an award in themselves. Such renowned musicians as Eric Clapton and Doc Watson have Henderson guitars. Hundreds of bluegrass and old-time musicians, who have played alongside and in competition with Wayne at fiddlers’ conventions, workshops and on tours, have acquired one. And perhaps most telling of all, so has Leah Halsey, a teenager who lives across and down the road from Wayne. Leah loves music and is justifiably proud of her Henderson guitar, and while she treats it respectfully, she does take it to campouts and outdoor conventions and, occasionally, to school, where friends and acquaintances are allowed to try it out. When asked how she got her guitar while Eric Clapton was still waiting for his, Leah will smile and shrug and will perhaps mention that after Wayne promised to start on her guitar, every once in a while she would take him one of her homemade pies It seems Henderson appreciates the craftsmanship in pastry-baking as well as in making guitars. Henderson guitars are not flashy in appearance, though some few have more and/or individually-designed inlay as ordered by the customer. Built with older Martin instruments in mind, most have light-colored spruce tops and darker, rosewood or mahogany sides and backs. To the expert, however, they are clean-looking and elegant, with hand-sanded finishes and clean, easy action of strings on frets. Wayne will tell you that while all aspects of making a stringed instrument are important, the secret of creating a really fine one probably lies in the parts you can’t see. The top of a six-string guitar is subject to hundreds of pounds of pressure from the strings being pulled tightly from the bridge to the tuning pegs at the end of the neck. To make the sound of the instrument being played be loud enough for the player and his audience to enjoy, the top must be as thin as possible, to increase the vibration or resonance of the strummed or plucked strings. It is easier for a luthier to work with heavier wood, since mistakes can be sanded out and things aren’t as likely to break, but heavy guitars look and feel second-rate and the sound they produce isn’t pleasing. There is a trade-off, then, between strength and resonance, and the rescue is in bracing. All guitars have wooden braces glued to the inside of their tops, and the size, shape, and positioning of those braces are what can make or break a guitar. Wayne Henderson will tell you how he learned about bracing, and about other aspects of making a wooden instrument. Henderson grew up not three miles from where he lives now, in the Rugby community of Grayson County, Virginia. His family was small-time farmers, and he was expected to follow in the tradition, but he was also following in the path his father had taken as musician. Wayne’s father played fiddle and as a young teenager, Wayne learned to play with him, moistly chording along on a borrowed guitar. “I decided I would try to make my own guitar,” Henderson says. “It was unheard of then (in the late ‘60‘s) for someone to make a guitar by hand. My dad said there was no way I could do it. He said you could make a tool, or you could make a door or you could make a barn, but you couldn’t make a guitar. They had to come from a factory somewhere. But I thought I could figure it out.” Henderson admired an instrument belonging to his neighbor, E. C. Ball (who later became famous for his family’s performance of tradition gospel and ballad music, and was recorded by the Library of Congress) “It was a Martin, and I just lusted after that guitar. He’d let me play it and look at it, but he wouldn’t let me take the string off it so I could get a good look inside,” Henderson recalls. “It was years later, that I heard about a fellow who was trying to repair an old Martin and I went to see it and could finally get a look at what’s inside one.” Meanwhile, Henderson’s first attempt at a homemade guitar literally fell apart. After working on it in his spare time for most of a year, he had an instrument that looked pretty good, but when the weather turned hot and humid, the rubber cement he’d used to hold it together, gave out. “I guess my dad saw that I was pretty low about it, “Wayne says. “He told me he’d take me to see Albert Hash, to get some idea of how to make a real instrument.” Albert Hash had been a fiddle-player in his youth, and had handcrafted a fiddle for his own use. The artistry of that instrument combined with Hash’s skill as a fiddler had made him well known in the region, but he had set it all aside when he settled to raise a family and work in a factory. During their visit, Wayne remembers Hash bringing out the fiddle and playing some tunes for him, and thanking the Hendersons for reminding him of how much he enjoyed making music. In exchange, Wayne says the contact with the generous, genuine man and the beautifully crafted fiddle unlocked several secrets for him: information about woods and “Weldwood” glue and the idea that a real instrument could be made at home, by hand. Wayne still has the next guitar he made. He gave it a number, “1,” and he’s numbered every instrument he’s completed since. “It still plays pretty good,” he says of that first guitar (The first that stayed together, that is.) “It looks sort of rough – most of the work was done with a pocketknife.” He smiles with a combination of confession and pride. It was with guitar #7 that the next piece of Henderson’s puzzle was solved. While still a teenager, his grandfather passed away and Wayne began spending the nights with his grandmother, whose house was a short walk down the road from his parents’. “She was afraid to be alone at night, so I’d go down there after chores every night and stay,” Wayne explains. “She didn’t get much television or anything, so I had nothing to do but either play my guitar or work on one. I’d carry the pieces down there and work at night. I’d been working on Number 7 for a long time, months and months, because I was adding a lot of fancy inlay and stuff. It was the prettiest one I’d made so far.” Henderson explains that a neighbor came to visit at his grandmother’s house one evening, bringing a friend with him. That man asked to see Henderson’s guitar. “He played it for a long time,” Wayne says. “He could play good, and sing. He sang Hank Williams tunes, mostly.” Before he left, the man asked what Wayne would take for the guitar. Wayne, who had sold guitars number 2 – 6 to area musicians and friends for about $40 each, did not want to sell this one. He had labored long and carefully to make this one his best so far. So, not to be rude and simply reject the man’s question, he blurted out a price that he was sure was so high, no one would ever take him up on it. “Five hundred dollars. You know, back then, $500 would buy a pretty good used car. And I needed a car.” The men left Wayne’s granny’s house, but later, the stranger returned alone. Again, he came in, asked to see the guitar, and spent the evening playing and singing. As he got up to leave, he said simply, “Well, I believe I’ll take it.” Then he pulled five one-hundred dollar bills from his shirt pocket, handed them to Wayne, and left. Wayne says that he was stunned by the amount of cash he had in his hand – more than he might make as profit from a year of farming. “It come to me then that a person could make a living, making guitars,” he said. It was an idea that was so foreign to the time and place, that it took a while to settle in. Once it did, though, it never left. Instead of buying a car with the money, Henderson bought some woodworking equipment and supplies, and began making guitars seriously. “I’ve been behind (in filling orders) about ever since,” he adds. Wayne Henderson is a generous, modest man. Sitting with his in his cluttered, comfortable shop, a visitor might never guess that he’s traveled the world on performance tours, that he was named a “National Treasure,” and that one of his guitars sold at auction at Christie’s in New York for ‘way more than $500. Think of tens of thousands. When asked point blank what he thinks makes his guitars so fine, Henderson considers carefully and then refers to the issue of craftsmanship. He’s already told us about wood and wood joints, bracing and doing every step the right way. “I guess I’m just patient.” We do not need to add, “modest.” But Wayne himself comes up with one more point. “I’m lucky because I also play music. I know what I want it to sound like, when I’m through.” And they do.     PS Henderson guitar #7 – the first really special one that he made - has come home and now resides in the shop. Wayne Henderson will tell you that after he sold it, reluctantly, all those years ago, he and the guitar’s new owner became friends. The man, Harold Ward of Independence, Va., invited young Henderson to accompany him to fiddlers’ conventions and musical gatherings, where he introduced Wayne to other musicians and characters of all sorts. “I guess he’s sort of responsible for getting me into making music seriously,” Henderson recalls. Wayne Henderson caught sight of that guitar for years. “Harold eventually traded it of, and I’d see it at fiddlers’ conventions, being played or leaned up against the fender of an old pickup, getting rained on. That used to bother me. Years later, somebody brought it into my shop, asking me to repair it.” The guitar had been reduced to a sorry state by then. The front was scarred, and there was a piece of oak flooring glued to the inside, in a clumsy effort at repair. There
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Local Treasures: Ricky Anderson

by Judy Weigand Traveling west on 58 from Galax, up gentle hills and down again, snaking through the many twists and turns, I felt myself slowly folding into the mountain scenery. Dipping down into the lush farms and hardwood forests along the road leading to  the little town of Independence. The seat of Grayson County, Independence is a very modest, friendly, and sparsely populated village. Many families have been here for generations and they understand the importance of supporting each other and their community.  Things move slowly here and I began to fall into pace. Continuing west on 58 from Independence, it was not long before I happened upon Rixey’s Market, a country store founded in 1957by Rixey and Norine Anderson Sr. I had tostop and explore. Better known as “Rickey,” Rixey Fielden Anderson Jr was there to greet me with his warm smile and friendly attitude. “Where good friends come to tell stories, laugh, talk and come to trade.” That’s exactly what I encountered. Wandering the aisles of this small, very well organzized store, I found dilly beans, pickled vegetables, a large array of jams and jellies, local honey, and seasonal fruits and vegetables, in addition to regional dairy products. I also found Whitetop Syrup sold in support of the nearby rescue squad. Bread, butter, peanut butter, chocolate milk, hot sauce, cornmeal muffin mix—you name it, it’s there. Ricky also carriesfeed and other goods for farm animals, hardware, magazines, gardening gloves, soda in glass bottles (it tastes better you know) and a wide array of sweets including New River Chocolate Rocks. You can even rent a storage unit. Ricky takes great care to provide what is needed and wanted by his customers while promoting regional farmers and entrpreneurs. Ricky was ten when his father opened Rixey’s Market. Most boys his age were busy with after school activities and sports, but not Rickey. He couldn’t wait to get home to work in the store. He worked behind the counter any chance he got, pumped gas, washed windshields, checked oil, and whatever else was needed to insure good service.To this day his favorite pasttime is interacting with his cusomers. He just likes being around people and hearing what they have to say.Part of his calling, Ricky feels the store provides an important service to the local people. After graduation from Appalachian State University with a BA in Business Administration, Ricky tried teaching school for a while, but his heart was with the store. After meeting his wife, Martha, they married and had a son. Together the continued to nurture the community they love. Ricky demonstrates hs commitment to community with various volunteer activities. The Grayson Volunteer Rescue Squad counted him as their Captain for ten years and he is still a member today. Because Ricky is eager to insure that ll interested young people have the educational opportunities they deserve, he serves on the Wytheville Communit College Board of Directors. He also regularly participates as a panelist and speaker for Appalachian State University Entrpreneur and Alumni Days. As a member of the Industrial Development Authority Board in Independence, Ricky is active in assisting businesses secure low interest loands, promoting job creation and retention, and supporting the local tax base. He is also scheduled to begin membership on the Matthews Living History Farm Museum Board of Directord in 2009. As we talked about his early life in Grayson County, it became clear that the values of his parents and his community produced more than a well organzied and productive country store. It produced a man who cares deeply about his fellow man, takes great joy in doing the right thing and believes in serving his community. Ricky will tell you he’s very partial to Grayson County. When he travels he sees what others have to offer but says it’s hard to beat these good old hills. People ask him at times when he will retire. Ricky says he has no plans to retire, that he would miss being in the store and visiting with customers. After all, his mother worked the store until she was 85 years old.
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Bed Full of Bonnets

Laura Cassell

Laura Cassell

by Penelope Moseley The wind was howling, furiously, on a cold day in March when a petite, frail looking women came scurrying round her house to let me know I was knocking at the wrong door. When this writer sat down with Mrs. Cassell to hear about her art forms, I asked where she would like for me to sit.  She answered, “Anywhere.”  Thinking she might want to claim a very comfortable looking rocker, I said, “But where do you usually sit?”  Her answer to that question set the stage for the summary of her life, “Well, I’m usually upstairs settin’ at my sewing machine.” Laura Cassell, who celebrated her 94th birthday this past January (2014), has worked tirelessly this brutal winter to replenish her inventory at Mayetta’s Market, an auxiliary body of the Hale-Wilkinson-Carter Home Foundation. Mrs. Cassell is one of the hardest workers I’ve ever met.  She learned to sew in a Home Economics class in school.  In her opinion, she learned more from her aunt, Flora Gardner, when she lived with Flora for four years.  Laura says, “You learn by doing.  You make one mistake and you don’t do it again.” Mrs. Cassell, born and raised on route 221 in Carroll County is the oldest of five children. She is a woman who has never been in a hospital and whose no-fear attitude started early in life.  When she was a young teenager, her brother needed a tonsillectomy, but didn’t want to go alone.   She was not sick, but volunteered to go with him.  When they arrived at Dr. Cox’s office, he announced that he would do two for the price of one -  $25.  They both went home to heal that day. In a time this country was suffering from the effects of a depression, Laura married Harvey Wayne Gardner and they moved into a one-room house, with a loft for the bed, in Floyd County. Someone gave them a chicken, another friend gave them a cow and another a pig.  “I thought I was in heaven,” says Mrs. Cassell.  They set up housekeeping and began her self-sufficient life style, farming and raising a family. After Mr. Gardner returned home from WWII, he bought a sawmill and milled the lumber for the home that sits on land bought from her father, that Mrs. Cassell lives in today. She is very gratified with the solid oak floors that stood strong against four children, Elizabeth Huff of Hillsville, Harvey Ray Gardner of Martinsville, David Gardner of Charlotte, NC and John Wayne Gardner, deceased.    Today 12 grandchildren test the house, especially in their special playroom filled with Cabbage Patch dolls and an assortment of other interesting things to keep a child at play. A creative and frugal woman, Laura used her skills to make ends meet by repurposing used garments and feed sacks into clothes for the family.  She asserted, “Even the teachers wore feed-sack dresses in those days. “  After working at the school cafeteria, Mrs. Cassell, at the age of 45, took a job at Sprague Electric in Hillsville and retired there after 20 years of service. Today she does alterations for friends, quilts, pieces quilt tops, decorates cakes, makes grape vine wreaths from her own grape vines, and is renowned for her cooking abilities. She makes the cookies for her homemade banana pudding!  She wouldn’t think of using store-bought vanilla wafers. The craft that keeps her occupied in the long winter months, these days, is sewing; sun bonnets, aprons, casserole totes, tote bags, baskets or anything else she dreams up.  This winter alone, she fashioned more than 30 eighteenth century style “Country Wives” bonnets, commonly worn by our British, French and North American working, middle-class women. She makes them from 100% cotton in small, middle and large sizes, as well as doll-size.  She began making the bonnets when friends wanted them for local events.  She didn’t have a pattern, but remembered seeing women wearing them in her younger days and came up with her own pattern. When she started making the bonnets, Laura gave them away, but explained that so many people wanted them and materials got costly, so she had to start charging.  In addition to selling her craft items at Mayetta’s Market, Laura dons her bonnet and apron with a period dress to demonstrate butter making (churning) and to sell her work at Shockley Old Timey Days, in Hillsville each September. She is an experienced butter maker.  In her farming days, she would get up at 4:00am to milk the cows. She made butter and cheese for the family and sold milk to various customers.  A beautiful Chippendale style secretary desk sits opposite a cherry corner cupboard in her living room.  The cherry cupboard was made from a tree, milled by Mr. Gardner, that went down in her yard.  The Chippendale, that houses a set of World Book Encyclopedias, was proudly purchased from her milk money. She doesn’t have time to quilt for people anymore but her quilting frame hangs from the ceiling of her sewing room, ready to hoist down and quilt for her family.  She has given a Double Wedding Ring quilt to each of her 12 grandchildren and 3 children. In addition to her craftwork, Mrs. Cassell is active at Fairview Presbyterian Church and with the seniors who meet each second Thursday at Sylvatus Ruritan Club.  She also volunteers to sell hot dogs for the Hale Wilkinson Carter Home Foundation during Hillsville’s Cruise Ins. Her numerous perennial flowerbeds are yawning the beginning of spring. In her words, “I like to work outside too much in the summertime to do any sewing.  I don’t know how much longer I can do it, but I’ll keep at it as long as I can.” To see Mrs. Cassell’s work and the art and crafts of many other local arts, visit Mayetta’s Market, an auxiliary of the Hale-Wilkinson-Carter Home Foundation.  It is operated by volunteers for the benefit of the Home, to provide income in support of local and regional artisans and upkeep and maintenance for the Home. Writers, musicians, artists and crafts people are invited to apply to participate through the jury process. The Hale-Wilkinson-Carter Home Foundation preserves “The Home”, a historical museum, and informs the general public about the cultural heritage of southwest Virginia by promoting artistic, educational and intellectual events.  Hours to tour the home vary, but Mayetta’s Market Gift Shop located on the first floor is open 11:00-4:00 Thursdays and Fridays and 11:00-2:00 on Saturdays, March through December. For more information on the Carter Home you may call (276) 728-5600 or visit the website at www.halewilkinsoncarterhome.org.  
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Buster Osborne: Honoring the Stillness

by Big Blue Author Mastin Fayne “Buster” Osborne is a gentleman.  His caring expression, thoughtful remarks, well mannered family, and perfectly appointed attire replete with cap and penny loafers, all manifest the kindly, respectful, manner typical of his generation.  His ancestors arrived here prior to the revolutionary war and true to fashion, Buster has taken poignant steps to honor his family, their traditions, and the “stillness” of the land on which they lived. Mr. Osborne stood to greet me upon my arrival, and after a brief tour of his lovely home, we sat down on his front porch with a panoramic view that in spite of failing eyesight he vividly described in detail.  “Over here were so many cherry trees that became huge and were finally lost, the pear tree standing in front of the house was here when my parents built the place in 1900, and the hickory and apple orchards were all around.” The remaining tree from which his niece makes apple sauce is clearly a favorite.   Pointing to our left he continued by describing a breathtaking view of the New River from Buzzard Hill.  This is the hillside and river across which he traveled daily for many years to attend school in Independence. Buster was born in 1916 to Preston and Ruth Cox Osborne, making a family that included 10 children.   As with many rural families of their time, the Osbornes farmed and lived along side their neighbors with the common understanding that they would survive and flourish only with the help of each other.  Construction of new homes, barns, and out buildings was the product of the community at large. Buster noted the speed with which their home was built, “it wasn’t perfectly complete, but my parents moved in and were living there within 40 days after they started.  It was the way they got things done back then.   Everyone helped each other.”    One of the Osborne family’s closest neighbors was the …………..Rose family.   They too built a grand home for their family.  It still stands on a hillside overlooking the New River where a ferry once crossed.  The only other access to this point was, and remains, through the Osborne farm.   After a tour in the Pacific during World War II  Buster lived and worked in Northeastern Virginia for many years as a real estate appraiser.   At age 65 he retired and returned home to his beloved family farm just adjacent to the New River.  For a long period of time he lived along side his neighbors, family, and friends in peace.   It was a surprise to Buster and his family when they learned two years ago that the old Rose family farm was the slated site for a new state prison.  As one might expect, community came together again, protests ensued, and after a time the prison site was repositioned leaving this portion of the New River untouched.   Knowing that there was always a risk of development on or near the land contiguous to his and that of the river, Buster decided to purchase the 170 acre piece of land and place it, along with his own farm, in the New River Land Trust conservation easement program.   While garnering significant state tax credits and federal tax deductions, these 540 acres are now protected from development.   To date, the scenic beauty and water quality of over 30,000 acres along 18 miles of the New River are now preserved through the combined efforts of landowners, the Virginia Outdoors Foundation, the National Committee for the New River, and the New River Land Trust.  Considered to be the oldest river in the United States, the New River extends 337 miles long through Virginia and North Carolina ultimately flowing into the Mississippi.   Buster Osborne loves this place his family has called home for generations.  “Listen to that, what do you hear?” said Buster Osbourne. “its the stillness that I love about this place.”  We have Buster and others like him to thank for that peace and “stillness” that he honors and that, fortunately, we may continue to listen for and enjoy along the banks of our extraordinary New River.
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Contact Me
If you would like your vacation or tourism property covered in a feature story, contact me,
Penelope Moseley
276-733-9704
paw@penelopesart.com