Outdoor Recreation

Camping on the New at the Blue

Great fishing–check. Cool camping in a real tipi–check. Canoeing, kayaking and tubing down the second oldest river in the world–check, check, check. Donnie & Janie Turner are the couple who have it all. They own Blue Cat on the New, an outfitter on the New River in Draper, Virginia.

I know, I know–most people go tubing or canoeing and camping out with a bunch of friends. And you can find cool stories that happy campers have submitted to Donnie published on his website, www.bluecatonthenew.com. But I had to be different. I had to test Donnie’s place by myself. And I guess I was testing myself at the same time.

Oh, I’m no kayaker, or canoe-er–the inner tube is more my speed. I don’t fish, but I like the idea of it. I bought a pole and a pre-made tackle box from that big chain store last year, but I only bought a North Carolina license, so I didn’t bother bringing my gear when I stayed at Blue Cat. I thought I would concentrate on my camping experience and my tube ride.

It was September of  ‘07 on the night of a full moon, if I remember correctly. When I arrived, Donnie was mowing the bottom, the large parcel of land running alongside the river where he has two tipi, a shower/bath house with His and Hers facilities, six well separated campsites and a sandy bank upon which to launch oneself onto the river. This is all in a secluded spot down the hill from his home.

I was blown away by the beauty of the gently-flowing river, and across the river there was a large outcrop of rock that was just stunning. All around me, birds twittered and I could have sworn I saw some kind of crane flying low across the river. The cows across the fence on the neighbor’s land bellowed a friendly hello.

I was the only one staying there for the two nights that I had booked a camp spot, a Sunday and Monday night. Donnie had just entertained a full ‘house’ over the weekend, as well as tons of tubers, kayakers and canoe-ers.

How deliciously quiet, I thought. Two whole days for me to think about nothing, drift for a couple of hours down the river, do little more than build a campfire, roast a hot dog and sleep.

I have oft been accused of laziness. “Né Cooke,” my father would say with a sweet and loving smile on his face, “you are the laziest person I know” Well this was one little trip I planned on fully claiming my title instead of trying to argue that I was not as lazy as I appeared to be.

On Sunday afternoon while I was setting up my tent, Donnie came by and brought me some wood for my fire. I have known Donnie for quite some time now and have always found him to be one of the nicest and accommodating people I know.

After I set up my tent and my dining canopy, I checked my rations. “Oh yeah,” I mumbled to myself. I had planned on being vegetarian for the couple of days. I had only packed fresh fruit, yogurt, and carrot sticks. “Well that won’t roast on the fire! What was I thinking?!”

I hopped in my car and fled to the nearest little store. Donnie’s place is on Rt. 100, a spiffy little road that can take you from Hillsville to Interstate 81 in only twenty miles, a curvy shortcut I have driven many a time in my life. But there aren’t any super food stores or even any not-so-super food stores out on that twenty mile stretch.

Much to my surprise, I found Hilly Haven. Not only do they have a full service deli but fresh cut steaks, pork and chicken.

The owner is a butcher and the cuts are wonderful. They will even cook the food for you. It really is neat for a country store and sort of famous in the river community. Some of the river guides will drive 20 miles out of the way just to eat their tenderloin biscuits before they go out on the river for a day.

By the time I got there, though, I guess all the good stuff had been sold out. They did have a pack of hot dogs left, and so ended my pre-planned vegetarian quest.

At this point, Dear Reader (as Jane Eyre would have said), you are probably thinking this is not much of an adventure story, and how much fun will it be reading about a lazy girl floating down a slow section of the New River (it’s no Man vs. Nature tale), eating hot dogs around a campfire by herself (it’s no Man vs. Man tale), going to bed early and sleeping a lot? Well okay, maybe it’s not all that much fun. This tale is a Woman vs. Herself story.

Now remember, there was no one else camping down by the river but me. It was a Sunday night. All the groups have had their fun and have gone home to prepare for a Monday kind of work week. Since I work for myself, I have chosen the slow night so I can be alone. After building my fire and sipping a few glasses of white wine–oh yeah, I forgot to mention I did remember my Vidal Blanc by Chateau Morrisette, the winery just up the road in Floyd. I decided to conquer my first fear and loathing: my self-image.

Hopefully Donnie won’t shoot me when he reads this. I would never have done this around other guests! Now don’t think badly of me–right now you are my shrink and I am sharing a deep dark secret—but I stripped down to my bare and danced around my fire with wild abandon.

“Goodbye old fraidy cat me,” I shouted to the sparkling flames and rushing wind. “Goodbye to the me who hates her body and hides from the world!”

After a few runs around the fire, I realized what an idiot I must look like, so I ran to my tent and got dressed and fell asleep with a snicker on my lips. Donnie may not ever let me go camping down there again, but I had to share.

The next day, Donnie sent the guy who picks up and drops off the water goers. I hitched a ride in the van just a couple of miles up the road. I was rather excited about my tube ride down the river that would take me right back to the campground.

The last time I had tubed down the river, I was about thirteen and I was with a group of people: really cute French exchange student boys, a guy I had a crush on from school who was my friend but not more, and some other kids my age including my mom. (We joke that she is more like my sister.) That was a lot of fun. Lots of splashing, talking, floating, swimming around.

How different a river can be to a 35 year old–I waded out in the water, dragging my inner tube behind me.

Donnie had said it was a very slow section of the river. It was so slow in fact; I thought maybe I had hopped on my tube too close to the banks. I kicked and splashed like a maniac, trying to get further into the middle, where I assumed there would be a moderately reasonable current that would pick me up and run me back to my campsite.

It was like I was sitting still! Oh, I know I was moving, as I would pick a reference point on the banks, check it a few minutes later and see that my vantage point had changed. But oh, the agony! It was slow. Wait a minute, I started thinking. Maybe I am not as lazy as I have been led to believe! Surely a lazy person would enjoy barely moving down the

New River floating on an inner tube!

See, this is the Woman vs. Herself section I warned you about. It was driving me absolutely nuts going so slow. I kept kicking my feet off the side, flipping my hands around in the water trying to make it go faster. Then like an idiot, I started thinking about one of those fish they say are so prevalent here in the New River–one guest even wrote about it and submitted it for your reading pleasure on Donnie’s website.

Surely my flailing hands and feet would be an attractive draw to the muskellunge, or Esox masquinongy, or “muskie” as he is commonly called. Mr. Muskie suddenly took on Jaws-like proportions to me. I just knew he would come driving up the water and throw over my tube or maybe nibble relentlessly on my bare feet dangling in the water.

Wasn’t I supposed to be pondering life, relaxing, enjoying the feel of the warm sun on my face? Instead, I kept thinking maybe I should have tried my hand at the canoe. That would have provided me with more control over my destination. And it would have allowed my body parts to remain muskie free. But then my arms would have been really

tired. Okay maybe I am lazy.

Suddenly, in the midst of my worries, I realized I had passed under the big bridge and was actually moving along. Okay, I thought, I’m moving. Just chill. To the left of me, I saw a herd of cows wading in the water by the banks.

These belonged to Donnie’s neighbor. They looked peaceful and serene. Hey! Was that cow doing Tai Chi? No.

My mind was playing tricks on me.

“Be the cow,” I muttered to myself. “Be one with the cow.”

I closed my eyes, just letting myself feel the way my body floated, rocked and swayed like a baby in a crib. “This is good,” I said to the winds whisking over my body. “You are warm,” I said to the sweet sunshine smiling down upon me.

Then I started opening an eye and peaking over to see if I was at the camp entrance/exit. What if I missed it? I couldn’t tube UP the river. How would I get back to the campsite? Relaxation: short lived.

“To hell with the muskie! I’m getting out of this water,” I screamed inside. I started paddling like a mad woman with my hands, hurrying my pace. I don’t know myself at all, I thought. I sure might be lazy, but I sure can’t relax! I finally made it to the bank, worried to pieces that I might miss it and float right past.

There it is! I saw the bank, a beacon like a lighthouse shimmering in my mind’s eye. I hopped off the tube and waded onto dry land, hauling the tube behind me. Wobbly-kneed, I walked back to my camp spot.

Later that night, fully dressed, sitting in front of my fire, I started laughing. “Now that was a fun tube ride down the river! I’ll have to come back and do it again”  Lazy? I don’t think so!

To make reservations at Blue Cat on the New for canoeing, kayaking, tubing, guided river tours, fishing, camping or tipiing, just call Donnie Turner at 276-766-3729. Map it! The address is 2800 Wysor HWY, Draper, VA 24324. Or visit http://bluecatsnewriveroutfitters.com for stories and more!

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Walking My Mountains to Prepare to Walk the Camino de Santiago

IMG_1992The founder of Taoism, Lao-tzu, is attributed with saying “The longest journey begins with a single step.”  My journey began around 2000 when I was first introduced to the Camino de Santiago by Shirley Maclaine’s book, The Camino.  I was intrigued by her accounts of a self-discovery pilgrimage. Maclaine wasn’t the first person to travel that Pilgrimage and I won’t be the last.  For the last 1000 years, people such as St. Francis of Assisi, Charlemagne, Ferdinand and Isabella, Dante and even Chaucer have taken the journey. Most people walk the distance in 28 to 42 days. I will be taking my time and staying at least 40 days. I’ve asked myself several times, “Why am I so interested in walking 500 miles, alone, in a country 4,000 miles away from home?”  My Spanish is nonexistent.  Almost 50 years ago, I had one year of  Spanish in high school. I’ve always been fascinated with other cultures and travel.  I’ve fed that attraction with many trips to numerous countries.  I’ve hosted people from several counties and have been a guest of others in foreign lands. A vivid memory from my early childhood was my owning a book titled The Wanderlust.  I don’t know how I acquired it and I don’t remember the plot.  I’ve searched on-line, hoping to find a clue to the allure, but haven’t found anything that resembles that particular book. Why? Could it be something about Maya Angelou’s passage?“Perhaps travel cannot prevent bigotry, but by demonstrating that all peoples cry, laugh, eat, worry, and die, it can introduce the idea that if we try and understand each other, we may even become friends.” Traditionally, as with most pilgrimages, the Way of Saint James or the Camino de Santiago, begins at home and ends at the final destination site.  To me, a pilgrimage is more than just the miles one walks on the actual route.  I can attest to the fact that the journey begins at conception by the 8 months I have spent, and the 3 months more that I need, to get ready for this walk; not counting the years that the seed has been germinating in my heart and head. It has already been a journey in and of itself; just the soul-searching alone could be termed a pilgrimage. I’ve given hours and hours to internet searches and I’ve read several books, including A Pilgrims Guide to The Camino de Santiago by John Brierley, To Walk Far, Carry Less by Jean-Christie Ashmore, Eyewitness Travel ‘s Northern Spain, and one book that was so boring I gave it away and don’t remember the name or author.  When The Waycame out, a 2010 American film with Emilio Estevez and his father Martin Sheen, I was beside myself with excitement. It was such a small budget, small release film that I missed it in the theatres, but was so happy to buy it on DVD two years ago. My tickets to Spain, in early May, are ready and waiting.  I have a reservation for a two-night stay at a hotel when I arrive in Pamplona, known here for Hemingway and the Running of the Bulls. I’ll need to get over jetlag and I want some time to see the city before I set out on foot. I’ve gone against my frugal nature of walking around town, several days a week, and have joined the Carroll Wellness Center.  I need upper-body strength to carry a 20-pound backpack and have it less burdensome.  I’ve followed all the sales at REI and made three trips to Greensboro, the nearest REI store, to reequip my hiking supplies.  My boots are 20 years old and the sole is about to come off.  Five-hundred miles with less than wonderful hiking boots-I don’t think so! The main pilgrimage route to Santiago, since the Middle Ages, follows an earlier Roman trade route. There are more than a dozen routes that converge at Saint James’ tomb in western Spain. Many people walk the Way for religious reasons.  Many hikers walk the route for non-religious reasons such as travel, sport, or the challenge.  Part of my fascination and determination is to experience a spiritual adventure and to distance myself from the hustle and bustle of everyday life.  Part of my resolve is to stay as young as possible, both mentally and physically.  This segment of my life should provide proof of my mental and physical competences, one way or the other. The Camino’s accommodations are unique with pilgrim hostels (albergues) which allow pilgrims to sleep in dormitory-style accommodations for as little as €3-10 ($4-14) per night. A good reason to go in May is to avoid the college kids that frequent the trail in the summer months.  By all accounts, there are pilgrims of all age groups.  Pilgrim menus are served in restaurants and sometimes at the hostels and are reasonably priced to accommodate the cathartic adventure. To prevent misuse of the 1000-year old spirit of hospitality at the refugios, a stayis limited to those carrying proof of their intentions.  One small indication that a person is a perigrino (pilgrim) is the iconic symbol of the scallop shell carried by the traveler.  There are many accounts as to why this item is symbolic, but one source suggests the grooves in the shell meet at a single point that represent the various routes traveled, arriving at a single destination: the tomb of James in Santiago de Compostela. Authentic pilgrims carry a credencial, a pass which gives access to the inexpensive and sometimes free, accommodation.  The credencial is stamped at each hostel along the way. Once you reach the Santiago de Compostela Cathedral, after a ritual visit to Saint James’ tomb, you may present your credencial and petition for a compostela, a certificate of accomplishment, written in Latin, given to pilgrims completing the Way. How will I feel after spending that many days away from family, away from the familiar?  Will I want to take up where I leave off? Will my life ever be the same? Follow my day-to-day experience as I blog about this journey at www.penelopesart.com.  I will also carry a pencil and a beautiful new lightweight leather journal that my good friend gave me for the trip in which I will attempt to record my thoughts for later reflections.
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Tripping or Centering?

by Penelope Moseley Easter Monday, the day before Arbor Day, was a perfect time to be outside.  I wanted to hike Buffalo Mountain, elevation 3,971 feet, a hike to aid my training for the Camino de Santiago.  The Buffalo is a pilot for the Blue Ridge Plateau region, as “Pilot” Mountain is the pilot for piedmont North Carolina.  The Buffalo amazes you from many vantage points in Carroll, Floyd or Patrick Counties. Carroll County Virginia is THE place to be to center yourself, in many ways.   Nature is my go-to-place for self-reflection.  Downtown Hillsville is the center of my universe, the center of the Blue Ridge Mountains and the center point for day tripping that will keep you from tripping out.  Numerous trails in southwest Virginia and northwest North Carolina serve my centering purpose.  I think each hike I take is my favorite place.  And, it is.  Until I take the next one. The sun was bright, the temperature pleasantly warm.  I stuffed lunch and water into a daypack and took my granddaughter, Lacy, for a short ride out highway 221 to Willis, turned on Conner’s Grove Road (VA 799) and drove about 5 miles to Moles Road, (VA 727).  Moles Road turns right one more time. I drove about another mile on a dirt road over some huge washed-out potholes made by winter’s attack.  I wouldn’t want to drive a low-slung car on that road!  I took a right at a three-way fork and drove over a better dirt road to the parking lot. The trail is a one-mile hike to the summit, but it is a strenuous mile.  Lacy is an eight-year-old. She marched up the mountain like a Sherpa guide - until the sweat started pouring. I forgot to grab her a hat and all that hair was making her feel like she was wearing a sheepskin coat, standing beside a pot-bellied stove. I tried putting her hair up using a stick, but she thought she didn’t look good enough and took the stick out.  I finally gave her my hat to stop the complaints.  We were one or two weeks early for the shade of newly developed leaves in the deciduous forest.  As it was, we had a clear view to the cerulean blue sky. I love nature.  Lacy is much the same way.  Even at a young age, she would sit in my garden and dig in the dirt for what seemed like hours, happy as a lark.  It was easy enough to quiet the complaints by focusing her on the significant natural occurrences we were walking on.  My old rock-hounding days from a life in Asheville, North Carolina paid off.  The magnesium rich outcroppings on Buffalo render it unlike any other place in the Commonwealth. There were beautiful milky white quartz veins all along the trail. She became very interested in the rocks, weighing down my pack with new pieces for her collection. According to the website, http://www.dcr.virginia.gov/natural_heritage/natural_area_preserves/buffalo.shtml, Buffalo Mountain is the only known location in the world for a mealy bug called Puto kosztarabi.  After searching several websites, I finally found a picture of the Buffalo Mountain mealy bug.  I really did see a corpse of one that I pointed out to Lacy.  Too bad I didn’t have enough foresight to photograph that too. I did photograph flowers, but like the fish that got away, I missed a great shot of a bee on a cinquefoil, the white, strawberry-looking bloom with razor sharp pointed leaves that reminds me of images I’ve seen of marijuana leaves. I was able to capture one image of a Tiger Swallowtail Butterfly.  Black Swallowtails and Tiger Swallowtails were abundant near and on top of the mountain. Ah!!!!  Nature!!!!! The conversation going steeply up the last 50 steps went something like this: “Yaya, I’m tired.   Yaya, stop!  I need water.  Yaya, can we sit on this rock for a while?  Yaya, can we eat here?, etc.”   With the last step, just as you crest the summit and see the view below and the rocky ridge in front of you, all that changed to, “Oh my gosh!!!!!!!”  Out of the blue, Lacy saw the reward for all the difficult steps. Don’t count on a porta-potty or any shade on top of the wind-exposed summit!  I used my jacket draped on a bush to make shade while we enjoyed our sandwiches.   There were too many people on the trail, especially on top that day, for me to be comfortable squatting behind a bush.  Our break was quick and we scurried like a squirrel back down the trail. I turned right on Conner’s Grove Road, instead of backtracking to Willis.  We came out on the Blue Ridge Parkway and turned west, stopping at Meadows of Dan for a restroom and an ice cream, a reward for an invigorating hike.  Back in the car, Lacy slept and I CENTERED.
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Contact Me
If you would like your vacation or tourism property covered in a feature story, contact me,
Penelope Moseley
276-733-9704
paw@penelopesart.com